Sunday, May 12, 2013

How To Curl Lashes (the Right Way)

Every artist has their own method, but here is mine for easy lash curling on a client or yourself—time-tested from years of experience.
Hold the curler the way you normally hold a pair of scissors. If you’re using the curler on a client, be sure to sanitize the entire tool, strip included.

Open the curler completely and bring it to the upper lashes, making sure to get the strip right up to the root of the eyelashes. Check to see that you have all of the lashes inside the curler. Place the tool upright, so the curve faces out.
Close the curler carefully on the lashes and squeeze lightly, with a soft, pulsing grip.

Now turn the curler upwards so that the curve of the curler lines up with the curve of your eyelid’s crease. This is the pro secret. It will give you curl, rather than a crimp effect.

Squeeze the curler handles in small pulses with light pressure, holding the tool in place for several seconds without blinking.
Walk the curler up from the root of the lash all the way to the tip, pressing and pulsing over the eyelash with the same pressure, until you reach the end.

Open the eyelash curler and examine the perfect pro curl. Repeat if necessary to define your lashes before applying makeup. Then, of course, do the other eye!

A lot of artists have their favorite lash curlers, myself include. The Shiseido and Shu Uemura are probably the two most popular with professionals. I do love them, but find they work better for flatter, less curved eye shapes.
For rounder eyes (the more common, universal shape), my two personal favorites are the Billy B Beauty Eyelash Curler and The Eyelash Curler from Kevyn Aucoin. Billy B’s is the ideal shape and size for most every eye and provides excellent pressure for perfect curl. The late makeup artist Kevyn Aucoin designed the Shu Uemura curler and felt it was not as universal as he wanted it to be. So he created his own, which is wider and allows for one of the closest, most precise curls I have ever seen.
Now you know my secrets for super lash curling. Don't be afraid of the pinch. Just jump in and get those gorgeous lashes fluttering.

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